3. Engine noises.. The
non-mivec engines as fitted to GR and GX models have hydraulic lifters (tappets)
and a ticking sound or rattle on start up, particularly from cold, is not uncommon. This noise should
stop after a few seconds, but if it doesn't or returns intermittently on tick
over, then a new set of lifters may be required. The fault is more annoying than
terminal but it's an expensive job to fix.
The Mivec engines have manually adjustable valve clearances, so any top end
rattle may indicate that valve clearances need adjusting. Have a good listen
when the engine is fully up to temperature. If you can do the job yourself then
it's just a pain, but if you can't, then you'll be forking out for a good few
hours labour.
Other rotational engine noises emanating from the right hand (driver's) side of the V6 can
often be traced to the alternator and power steering/a/c compressor belts and/or
tensioners. Sometimes a change of belts will cure the odd squeak, but you can be looking at £150
if you need to replace the tensioners as well. Don't forget to check out the
efficiency of the a/c system. If it doesn't blow cold then it may just need
re-gassing. If any parts are required such as condenser or compressor, then I'm
afraid new prices are mental and good used stuff is thin on the ground, so you
may end up just opening the windows.
4.
Timing belts..
The service period of the timing belt (cam belt) is 100,000 kms (62,000 miles).
This is an interference engine, or to put it simply, if the timing belt snaps then
certain engine bits get tangled up other bits and you'll be shelling out for a replacement
engine. Unless the seller can provide chapter and verse when the belt was
changed, then you should budget £300 ish for the job. If you are a bit of a Jonah
then you'll also need a water pump and centre idler which pushes the cost up to
£400.
5.
Oil leaks.. The MIVEC
engine as fitted to the GPX and GPvR has a tendency to leak oil from the cam
carrier of the rear bank.
This is more a
messy inconvenience than a terminal job. Apart from the appropriate sealant and
gaskets, there aren't many parts involved, but it's a labour intensive strip
down to fix. Judging by some of the awful attempted repairs we've encountered,
which can result in a knackered engine, this is not a job to be undertaken
unless you know what you're doing.
6. Alternators and charging.. Another
Achilles heel of the FTO. Flat batteries as a result of undercharging and fried
electrical bits in the event of overcharging. Check the voltmeter in the centre
of the dash. It should register over 12 volts at about 1500rpm under load
(lights and things on) but no more than 14 volts. A dimly glowing battery
warning light on the dash when the engine is running is another sign of
alternator trouble. Cost to fix around £300. Random electrical bits not working
such as electric windows, mirrors or gauges, may well be the legacy of past overcharging
and you should tread carefully. Just to add to your gloom, a duff circuit on an
otherwise healthy alternator
7.
Auto gearbox.. The
tiptronic gearbox in an FTO is one complex bit of kit and needs to be checked
carefully. Check
the colour of the transmission oil. It should be bright red and clean. If it
looks brown or discoloured then it may just be old, or it may be a sign of
impending gearbox failure. A good road test is needed and you are looking for
smooth gear changes both up and down the box. Don't forget to check that the
tiptronic facility is working correctly. Any major clunks when a gear is engaged
are a concern, but a green flashing neutral light on the dash indicates a
transmission fault and should be a warning for you to spin on your heels.
Tiptronic boxes are a fortune to rebuild and most people end up settling for a good used
unit. You can expect to pay £600 upwards fitted.
8. Suspension clonks..
During a road test if you notice any knocking sounds then it may well be down to
anti roll bar drop links. These are fitted to both front and rear. The GR and GS
models have a different arrangement on the rear, but all a prone to wear. The
parts are not horrendously expensive but allow for a couple of hours labour if
you can't DIY. Front strut top mounts and rear trailing arm bushes are other
sources of suspension noises. Other random clonks could be
ball joints in the front lower arms or wishbones - if heavily worn. To
check you really need to get the car off the deck and give the front wheels a
good tug top to bottom. The ball joints are not replaceable separately and you
will need to replace the whole arm - at least £150 per side plus fitting. A properly
carried out MOT test should uncover this type of wear, along with other
basic faults, so the importance of a recent test certificate is self evident.
9.
Road noise.. A sort of
droning sound at normal road speeds can indicate a couple of things. If the
noise changes dependent upon road surface then in may be down to tyre type or
condition. FTOs don't have a whole load of sound deadening so any faults in this
area tend to be magnified. Japanese domestic market (JDM) tyres can be pretty
noisy on UK road surfaces, as can some of the more spurious budget tyres
available in the UK. If you hear a drone that is not dependent upon road
surface, then this could be from worn wheel bearings. When road testing, and
assuming it is safe to do so, move the steering wheel from side to side to load
up the suspension and see if the note or intensity of the noise changes. If it
does then this could point to worn wheel bearings. The front bearings are not
expensive, but a bit of a bugger to fit. The rears are a doddle to fit, but as
you need to buy a complete hub unit, they are expensive. Ho hum.
10. Exhaust system.. Make
sure you check out the full exhaust system from front to back. The downpipe
fitted to V6 models from manifolds to catalytic converter has flexy sections
that are prone to blowing. Corrosion of the joint from the centre pipe to rear
silencer is another potential source of expense. The cost of new parts from a
dealer are just daft and although decent aftermarket parts are now available,
you will still spend over £500 on the down pipes and a cat back system.
