fto workshop
tips - suspension and steering..
The following information is based on over 30 years in the motor trade and 10
years experience with the sales and servicing of Mitsubishi FTOs. This advice should help you make a more informed decision
regarding parts purchase and may also be useful for any DIY'ers out there.
shockers and lowering..
On the subject of uprated and lowered springs, they will normally work
acceptably only if your dampers are in good condition. If your dampers
are generally knackered, then you will definitely not feel the benefit
and it may even may the car feel less stable, particularly over uneven
roads . Check for signs
of fluid leaks where the piston rod enters the body of the damper.
Minor leaks are signs that the shocker has seen better days and
should ideally be replaced. Major leaks mean that the units are well
past their best and could well be an MOT failure item.
suspension noises..
FTOs with suspension rattles are not unusual. In many cases it can be traced
to wear in the anti-roll bar drop links which are fitted to both the front and
rear suspension. These are rods with a ball joint at each end and excess play is
pretty easy to check by hand. Anything other than the slightest play in
the ball joints will give rise to annoying rattles. worn front strut top mounts
can also be a source of rattles over uneven roads. GR and GS models have a
different drop link arrangement at the rear, with rubber bushes instead of ball joints.
The bushes perish with time and can cause the same sort of rattle as worn ball
joints. If you have lowered suspension then, at the rear only, you will need the
lowered version of the appropriate drop links to maintain the correct geometry. While you are on it will
be worthwhile checking both the front and rear anti-roll bar to chassis bushes, as they also have a
tendency to wear. Heavy duty bushes cost buttons and they are quite easy to
replace. Anti roll bar diameters vary from model to model.
steering geometry..
In common with all vehicles, excessive tyre wear on FTOs is
often as a result of incorrect steering and /or suspension geometry.
Don't forget if you fit lowered springs, a 1 inch reduction in ride
height equates to very nearly one additional degree of negative camber.
At the absolute minimum you
should have the front wheel alignment and camber checked and adjusted as
necessary. Don't forget to check for wear in the track rod ends and the
track rod inner joint. If wear is excessive, both areas will be potential MOT
failure items and will render any geometry adjustments a bit of a waste of time.
Whilst you are ferreting about with your steering, check out the rack gaiters,
boots or bellows - call them what you will - as they have a tendency to
deteriorate and split, which is another MOT failure item.
road noise..
The FTO is definitely not the
best sound proofed vehicle on the road and any rotational noises tend to be
magnified quite considerably.
Before you rush out
and buy wheel bearings, have a close look at your tyres. This particularly
applies if you are still running with tyres designed for the Japanese domestic
market, as jdm tyres can generate unbelievable noise levels on certain road
surfaces. El Cheapo UK supplied budget tyres can suffer from the same issues.
There are reasons why some makes of tyre cost only a fraction of the better
known brands such as Michelin, Goodyear and Pirelli and less sophisticated
construction is one of them. Jack the car up safely using axle stands and
spin each wheel. You are looking for strange tyre wear patterns, flat spots,
bulges or any sign of eccentricity. Whilst you've got the car off the ground,
grab each wheel and give it a good hoick up and down and from side to side -
there should be no appreciable free play or knocking noises. As a second check,
if the noise is coming from one end of the car only, then try changing wheels
front to rear and see if the noise follows the swappery, if you see what I mean.
Once you have eliminated the tyres then your noise could well be worn wheel
bearings. Wheel bearing drone often varies in volume dependent upon steering
input and as loads change on suspension components. If this variation is evident
then you should get a second opinion at your local garage or MOT station.
tyre pressures and things..
A regular complaint from FTO owners is that the car has a tendency
to drift to one side or the other. This can be as a result of a
number of factors, including incorrect wheel alignment, excessive wear
in the steering rack, track rod ends or front wheel bearings. In the
absence of excessive play, we often find that it is much more simple - incorrect tyre pressures.
Try and get into the habit of checking tyre pressures regularly, but
don't rely on the gauge at your local petrol station - a decent digital gauge can now be
had for less than a tenner. Always keep it in the car and used regularly it
will pay for itself time and again in terms of reduced tyre wear, not to
mention improved fuel consumption. For the FTO start at 2 bar
(30 psi) both front and rear and adjust to taste.
IMPORTANT
Although we have been very careful in the compilation of our advice pages,
we cannot be held responsible for any loss or damage caused if
you decide to follow the advice contained herein. Don't tackle
any work unless you are confident that you fully understand the complexity of
the job you are undertaking. Make sure that you have the correct tools and
never, ever work under an unsupported vehicle. If
you are not confident that you can complete the job, then it should be entrusted
to a specialist.
If you
feel that there are any errors on any aspect of this page, or simply wish to comment, please call Malcolm on
0191 586 7724
or you can
email us here
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