workshop tips 
the fto and the mot ..

Please note that this is not intended to be a detailed analysis of the MOT test, but more a list of potential problems areas specific to the FTO, and what you can do to minimise the inconvenience and expense of your car failing the annual test.The following information is based on over 30 years in the motor trade and 10 years experience with FTOs. This advice should help you make a more informed decision regarding parts purchase and may also be useful for any DIY'ers out there. 

brakes..
problem: Corroded brake pipes get a mention in the section above, so straight on to the main components. If your FTO fails the MOT on front brake efficiency, then to be brutally frank you need shooting with something unpleasant. MOT braking standards are not particularly onerous and the front brakes of any half decent FTO should sail through. So if you couldn't tell there was something amiss, or worse still just couldn't be arsed to fix it, then you really shouldn't be driving a car, never mind a performance car. It's a slightly different story on the rear as the handbrake system, unless it is maintained correctly, can be marginal and MOT failure is quite common. Problems can be caused by brake pads seized in the caliper, seized handbrake cables, ropey brake discs, a malfunction in the caliper itself or if you're really unlucky, a combination of all four.

solution: Part of a major service, ideally every 12 months, should be a complete brake strip down and clean. If this schedule is adhered to then apart from perhaps a quick tweak of the handbrake, an FTO should sail through the brake test. If you want to make sure and are a competent DIY'er, then the FTO braking system is quite straightforward. Whip the front brake pads out and give the holding clips and caliper carrier a good wire-brushing. Check the flexible brake hose for signs of cracking or chafing and replace if you have any doubts. Don't allow the caliper to dangle on the flexible brake hose - hang it out of the way with a bit of bent welding rod or a wire coat hanger if you are not a proper welder. It's a lot easier if the caliper carrier is removed completely, then you can get it in a vice and remove all traces of rust from the pad slots. Clean all pads and brake discs and check for wear on pads and have a look at both brake discs for excessive grooving, cracking, or corrosion. Replace defective pads or discs as required and don't be tempted to fit old pads with new discs - it's false economy and risks damaging your new discs. Clean caliper pistons with a wire brush and check for excessive corrosion and/or fluid leaks. Make sure that the caliper pistons retract correctly, that caliper bolts are free in the carrier and reassemble with copper assembly compound on the sliding pins and where the pads meet the retaining clips. The brake pads should be an easy push fit into the retaining clips. If it is not immediately obvious that getting grease or Copperslip on the friction faces of the pads or discs is a very bad idea, then you should stop now and seek help. Talking of help, this is the point where you will need an assistant to press the brake pedal a few times leaving you to check that when the pedal is released and you turn the hubs, there is no evidence of drag or brake binding. Get your assistant to keep the pedal pressed and check flexible hoses carefully for signs of swelling and of course for any fluid leaks.  

The rear brakes follow the same procedure as the front but you will need to check both handbrake cables and the external handbrake mechanism on the caliper. Slacken the handbrake cables off fully at the lever end inside the car - you can access the single adjusting 10mm nut directly under the cup holder just in front of the centre arm rest. You can now remove the handbrake cable from the caliper and remove the bottom bolt. The caliper should swing upwards and then slide off the top pin. Again the caliper carrier is best removed for cleaning, particularly if badly corroded and don't forget to clean the pad retaining clips. The brake pads should fit into the caliper carrier retaining clips with just slight finger pressure. If you have fitted new brake pads then you will need to adjust the caliper piston to allow for the increased thickness of the new pads. Clean the caliper piston with a wire brush and check that it is free, but don't be tempted to force it by compression. The slotted piston is on a screw thread arrangement that compensates for brake pad wear, and needs to be screwed in or out with either pointy nose pliers or preferably the correct caliper piston tool. The piston should turn freely and be adjusted just sufficiently to allow the caliper to fit over the pads when the slot on the piston aligns with the little 'pip' on the inner pad. Using Copperslip the whole caliper should slide freely on both the upper pin and lower retaining bolt. Once again avoid contaminating the brake pad friction surfaces with Copperslip or grease. Refit the handbrake cables with a dab of your favourite grease where appropriate and adjust for travel at the lever end inside the car. Check brake fluid level at the reservoir and adjust accordingly. Use DOT3 or DOT4 fluid and only from a sealed container. See the front brake section above for checking for brake binding or leaks.

If you have fitted new pads and/or discs then they will need a few hundred miles of non-aggressive braking to bed in correctly and thus achieve maximum efficiency.   

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IMPORTANT
Although we have been very careful in the compilation of the advice pages of our website and the content is thoroughly checked by our panel of specialists,  we cannot be held responsible for any loss or damage caused if you decide to follow the advice contained herein. 

Please bear in mind that a job which may well be a piece of p*ss on a vehicle lift, could easily turn into a total nightmare when lying on your back in the regulation puddle. Don't tackle any work unless you are confident that you fully understand the complexity of the job you are undertaking. Make sure that you have the correct tools, always wear the appropriate protection and never, ever work under an unsupported vehicle. If you are not confident that you can complete the job, then it should be entrusted to a specialist.

If you feel that there are any errors on any aspect of this page, or you simply wish to comment, please call Malcolm on 0191 586 7724

or you can email us here


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